a way of life here. there are plenty of justifications of course, the soldiers aren't paid enough, the central govt doesn't support basic services, people are forced to eke out a living any way they can etc etc.
but for an american like myself the system is very hard to get used to. there is no sign to tell you how much you have to give. each encounter is different, each negotiation unique. sometimes there isn't negotiation, you just hand over some money and hope its enough. most times its plenty.
as you might imagine this photo cost some money. i didn't participate in the negotiation as it was my first day in the country. the interchange was expertly handled by John Paul and Midjo (natacha's cousins) who laughed and chatted their way through a 10 minute conversation with a man in camoflage who sported some itty bitty sunglasses. a kalishnakov was attached to his white plastic chair with a piece of rope. eventually, after paying the proper respect, he welcomed us and our cameras to this quasi holy (there is a mauseleum like grave to complement the Leninesque statue of Kabila, the father) nationalist site.
i returned on sunday with natacha. the internet cafe was closed (the lebanese took the day off) and so we walked around Gombe (think upper east side with razor wire) and found ourselves close to the monument. so we went in. you have to leave your ID at the gate because they are afraid you might deface the statue. or because they want your money.
on the way out, we didn't offer to pay. and so they had to ask, "can you visit the house of M Bush and not pay?" well kind of. if you do pay, there is a sign that suggests how much you need to fork over. so i took out my wallet and gave the guy 850 congolese francs, about 1.50 american dollars. i apologized. there were four guys sitting there with guns. they looked hungry and i was afraid they would take it as an insult. thats really all i had, enough for about 45 minutes of internet connection. i said, "i am poor".
they laughed.
and said,"the poor ones are like him." gesturing over their shoulder at the statue. "in congo if you are alive, you are rich"
i said, "well i guess i am rich and poor at the same time. a living contradiction."
they laughed and wished us a good day.
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